Welcome to another edition of my RyanGoesToChina.com. I went to Hong Kong last weekend. You’ll be able to see pictures on my Flickr account from the zoo, the history museum, the ferry from Kowloon Peninsula–this is where the train from Guangzhou takes you–to Hong Kong Island, and more. You can find the pictures at the bottom left of this blog. See the pictures? Below the last one, there’s a link called “More Photos.” Check it out! I wrote some observations and I will share them with you. Some people asked for better and cleaner pictures of my apartment. Well, it’s cleaner now, so you can take a look and tell me what you think.
At first glance, Hong Kong is just like home. Well, not my home. It looks just like New York City. I honestly thought that I was in New York City. I knew I wasn’t but if I closed my eyes, I could smell and hear The City. Even the bus engines sounded and smelled the same. The good and bad smells were the same. The various brands of available food and clothing are about the same. I walked a little further and started to tell myself that I was crazy and, of course, I found many differences. Though, I’m sure if I tried, I could have walked a mile thinking “Hmm, New York looks a lot like Hong Kong” and not the other way around, before I remember I was actually IN Hong Kong.
I checked into my hostel, the Dragon Hostel, where I found everyone speaking English–the receptionist who studied four years at Michigan State, 5 Filipino women speaking English with Spanish accents, and some Europeans I didn’t formally meet. I jumped on a public computer in the lobby and went on Facebook even before checking e-mail. It was not blocked, of course, and I needed to see that. Finally, I left, and headed to the Hong Kong Museum of History. This shows Hong Kong’s beginnings and modern history in eight exhibits, starting 400,000,000 years ago and ending in present time. I even got to see the famous speech where Hong Kong was officially ceded from the UK.
As it turns out, Hong Kong is one-third granite, and this is because of all the volcanoes. I think most aren’t even capable of having activity these days, but Hong Kong was once covered in lava. The hundreds of various islands formed from melting ice two million years ago that flooded the valleys. Also, all the activity caused some geological changes that are quite amazing. If you know about rocks and their use in studying the age of a region, you know that you can look at horizontal lines on some rocks. Basically, the different color rings can tell you something. I’m not sure what. Well, in Hong Kong, in the New Territories, some of those lines are vertical, because whole mini-mountains, as I call them, have vertical lines because these mini-mountains were turned almost 90 degrees by underground activity pushing rock up from underneath the Earth’s crust and, of course, moving the existing rock out of the way. I didn’t have time to visit the New Territories on my trip, but I’m sure to go back to Hong Kong again.
I learned a lot about various dynasties and trade between them and with Europe and India. The most interesting were all the things that are distinctly not native to Hong Kong but were found in Hong Kong. This is unique because it shows that people from the mainland were settling in Hong Kong a lot earlier than researching previously had thought. In combination with geological history, we were able to find out who settled where and perhaps why they were leaving the mainland and how often they were able to commute back and forth. Given all the fighting between kingdoms and the dynasty ruling about immigrating outside of one’s kingdom, the move to Hong Kong was likely done secretly, similar to the way Cubans come to Florida these days. For Han and Nanyue mainlanders, Hong Kong was the next big thing or an escape from poverty, respectively. The latter practically bordered Hong Kong so it was an easy trip.
Hong Kong was the biggest trading port to Asia. Travelling on land through central Asia was harsh so getting to China was nearly for the Europeans. Also, having to encounter Muslims cultures was a big deterrent. Other nations were able to take advantage of their better proximity to Hong Kong, but eventually, Vasco de Gama’s sailing around the Cape of Good Hope was marked as a great beginning of trade between Europe and Hong Kong. Though other people had supposedly gone before him, the museum gives him the credit for creating the most trade with Hong Kong at the time. de Gama’s motivation was that going through the Middle East was quicker but likely a diplomatic problem in that relations with the Muslims nations in the area were either nonexistent or unfriendly. Hong Kong became the most famous port at the time in all the known world. Everyone from as far as Western Europe and the UK and as close as south China saw no better place. The UK eventually won the right to rent land and build property, originally serving as places for storage and sleep for the frequent traders. As we all know, this eventually turned into the UK’s colonization of Hong Kong.
The UK occupation wasn’t always easy. The other thing I found interesting that I didn’t know was that, on Pearl Harbor Day, Japan also bombed Hong Kong. The following events were far different from that of Hawaii. On December 8th, 1941 (it was still December 7th in Hawaii due to the timezone difference), Japan bombed Hong Kong. Rather than just planes, they were able to bring warships and eventually come on land. The English governor eventually ceded to the Japanese general in charge of the raids, marking Hong Kong as a Japanese state. The propaganda began right away. While genocide was not a formal practice, the culture of Hong Kong was eliminated practically overnight. All the street signs, advertisements, and buildings had to be replaced with Japanese-language equivalents. Students in schools were forced to learn Japanese language, culture, and government tenets. I believe I read that only about 4,000 kids were formally enrolled in any school so this didn’t cause a big problem, but I imagine that the Japanese government wasn’t interested in building more schools for them either.
During this time, there was never enough food for the citizens. While I don’t believe the Japanese planed to colonize Hong Kong to make the people’s lives a living hell, this is often what happens anyway. The Japanese did seem to have a well-developed long-range plan. Furthermore, coordinating strikes on both Hawaii and Hong Kong on the same day is impressive, which shows the discipline and technical knowledge of the Japanese military at the time and of the current culture of modern-day Japan. However, many Hong Kong residents in the newly Japanese region weren’t going to give up. Independent and apparently very young people who were brave and patriotic formed infinite militias that were eventually able to kill both Japanese travelers and government workers. After about 3 years, the same English governor that once ceded to Japan regained his position as Governor.
Eventually, in 1997, Prince Charles of Wales, in an emotional speech, returned Hong Kong to China. The UK flag was pulled down to the UK national anthem and the Hong Kong flagged was raised to its anthem. Of course, what ensued was a battle between Beijing and Hong Kong over many iterations of “independence” between the mainland and the islands. Not totally independent, Hong Kong does have distinct power, though the mainland does have final say on many things: which countries’ ships can dock there, who can lead Hong Kong’s various government agencies, and so forth. I don’t know how often Beijing asserts this power, but I would imagine it’s more of a scare tactic, leverage to scare them into keeping ties, rather than Beijing totally controlling Hong Kong on specific issues.
So! Enough history. I also went to the zoo and botanical gardens. I saw primates, birds, FLAMINGOS! The flamingos were actually some neon orange color, but the zoo directory called them flamingos. The stood on one foot and tucked their heads and long necks into their back feathers when resting, as flamingos do. So, I think I saw flamingos, which is amazing. I love them. The jaguars apparently weren’t at the zoo. I assume they didn’t leave on their own terms. Haha. I didn’t see any running around town.
I took notes whenever I could. I’ve listed them below. Enjoy!
- From the History Museum, I learned that the Punti were the earliest people in Hong Kong. This literally means “local people.” Throughout history, the Punti viewed everyone else as visitors or immigrants, even if they were born there but their great-grandfather immigrated from the mainland or somewhere else.
- Like many parts of China, religion was important, but so was ancestral worship. Instead of worshipping a god, they worshipped their ancestors. The people of Hong Kong, especially the Punti, lived in clans. They lived in walled cities. There were annual ceremonies to induct new members of the clans. These were people born anytime after last year’s ceremony. They called it a ”lighting lantern ceremony.” You guessed it. During the ceremony, they lit a lantern. Fifteen days later, the put out the light in a “Closing lantern ceremony.” It seems to me like a club similar to the Elks or other “lodge” groups. Of course, they were much larger and influential because they ran cities. Ancestral worship is something like worshipping people as if they were gods but not treating them as having divine power. I don’t think you worship them before their death, but rather you follow all their rules under the impression that you could be killed at any moment if you don’t unquestionably follow. This is where, I think, the Chinese government’s dirty version if Communism comes from. They tell people they will be punished for not following even the littlest rule and could be killed. Also, communism, with a lowercase “c” is simply the idea of living in groups and living your life first and foremost for the benefit of the group and only helping just yourself whence everyone else is taken care of. The dirty version takes out that last part and says you can never do anything but help the group.
- A little more about newborn’s initiations into the clan, I made a tiny connection to baptisms in Western religious cultures. It’s not a great connection, but it seems that many cultures east of the Suez worship ancestors rather than Gods.
- The importance of paper designs in Chinese culture goes back to the times when people used to cut paper in the shapes of things they thought the recently deceased would want or need to have in heaven: pots and pans, animals, books, etc. They cut the paper into those shapes, burned the paper, and let the smoke float to the heavens and presumably reach the deceased. Before paper, they burned the actual items they thought the deceased would want.
- The Nanyue Kingdom (203-111BC) was the first to unify South China. Present-day South China still refers to Cantonese as Yue-yu, or Yue’s people’s language. In Guangzhou, people call Mandarin Guo-yu, or the country’s language, seeming to separate them from the rest of the country, which they often do in half-joking plugs in social settings about how I should learn Cantonese instead. They know it’s a futile attempt, but they still try to revolt in this small way.
- Present Day Panyu, now one of the terminal stations of the Guangzhou Metro, was the original center of Guangzhou. There is also a recently restored 3rd century town that I should go see when I have town. Apparently, it’s not modernized at all.
- The Metro in Hong Kong says “mind the gap” like the tube in London.
- The Metro in Hong Kong has signs about hygiene, washing hands and face, etc. They also have signs on the escalators that say they disinfect the handrails hourly. I think it said this is not manually once a day and automatically hourly. I don’t know how it’s done automatically, but I think that’s what the sign said.
- The exchange rate at Hong Hum station on Kowloon Peninsula is 125 Hong Kong dollars to the Chinese yuan (RMB).
- On each Metro, there’s a first-class car and coach cars.
- My hostel had two elevators, one going to odd floors, the other going to even floors.
- Hong Kong, as well as mainland China, doesn’t have a problem with the number 13. HOWEVER, anything number with a 4 as a digit is a problem because it sounds like “to die.” It’s a different, but I guess it’s close enough. That, I guess, is similar to Japan, as our foreign exchange student living with us when I was in sixth grade pronounced his name differently to avoid saying the part that sounded similar the Japanese word for “to die.”
- The Star Ferry is the one to go to and from Kowloon Peninsula and Hong Kong Island. I took many people from the ferry.
- From the ferry, Hong Kong Island looks like a bouquet of buildings. I can imagine plucking one.
- In Hong Kong, the metro card is called the Octopus card. You can use it everywhere in the city: small shops, vending machines at the ferry and elsewhere. Sometimes the vending machines don’t have slots for paper money, just coins and the Octopus card.
- People in Hong Kong obediently and respectfully stand to the right on the escalators for walkers can get by on the left. This doesn’t happen in Guangzhou.
- Hong Kong is more crowded than Guangzhou but it’s easy to get around because people walk around each other instead of through each other.
- In Hong Kong, they drive on the left and sit on the right, like in England. With many one-way streets, I was still a little shocked when I found out. Historically, it makes obvious sense, but I completely forgot about it.
So, that’s it for now. I hope you enjoyed everything. The pictures are amazing. You’ll notice I took several pictures of the same hot air balloon. I was trying to get a good picture of it because it’s a DHL balloon. I thought it was clever that they advertise that way.
As always, if you have questions, comments, or suggestions to make my blog better, let me know!
Talk to ya’ll later.
Ryan (day 116)